Orange wine

I’m obsessed with this fascinating and venerable style of winemaking. Essentially white wines made as if they were reds – the grape skins are left in contact with the juice as it ferments, and sometimes as it matures as well, this style can be utterly thrilling and unique when well executed.

Here’s a selection of articles and tasting notes on some of my favourite orange wines. Check my feature in the Decanter May 2015 issue for a general primer and some of the backstory.

A wave of Georgian qvevri wine in Amsterdam I’m a huge fan of Georgian qvevri wines – that’s to say, wines made in the 8,000 year old traditional manner, where grapes, skins and sometimes stems are piled into a 500 – 2,000 litre clay amphora-like vessel, buried up to its neck in the ground. The challenge has always been how to get hold of ...

Damijan Podversic – realising a dream Damijan Podversic at Prowein, March 2017Damijan Podversic’s decision in 1999 to reject his conventional winemaking education, in favour of a more “back to the roots” style, did not sit well with his dad who denied him usage of the family’s ancestral cellar. Since then he’s developed an impressive and tradition style of skin macerated white wines, following in the footsteps ...

Muscat Ottonel, a love story Martin Lichtenburger and Adrianna Gonzalez in their cellar, March 2017Sometimes the path of true love really does alter everything. When Austrian Martin Lichtenberger and Spaniard Adrianna Gonzalez met in 2007, during their winemaking studies in California, they might not have predicted that they’d soon be making wine together on another continent. Not to mention a skin contact Muscat Ottonel (an orange wine).

The dreaded Palomino – Daterra Viticultores Laura Lorenzo pours a sample at Simplesmente Vinho 2017, PortoTasting at a busy wine fair is hard. Where to go, what to taste? Did I miss something mindblowing amidst the crowds? A tall, rather statuesque lady with impressive dreadlocks grabs my attention. I offer my best/only Portuguese “Posso provar os vinhos brancos?”, she retaliates with a stream of Spanish. I catch the word “Galicia” ...

Barking at the moon: Movia – Lunar 2008 Decanting Lunar into a florid Riedel vesselAleš Kristančič is a man whose reputation precedes him. Movia, the family’s estate in Western Slovenia since 1820, has become one of the most well-known producers from the region, and also a trailblazer for the skin contact style.

Tbilvino’s Qvevris Rkatsiteli – big isn’t necessarily bad Tbilvino Qvevris Rkatsiteli 2013Tbilvino is based in western Georgia’s Kakheti – the country’s most important wine region. A product of the modern age, Tbilvino was conceived in a post-communist world – their first commercial vintage was 1999. They’re pretty successful, producing around 3 million bottles a year, most of which are sold to Russia, other ex-soviet countries and ...

Making orange wine in the Douro Valley – Part 1 Simon holding Portuguese grape varieties It started with a seemingly innocent question from Oscar Quevedo: “Simon, do you know how to make an orange wine?”. Oscar isn’t stupid of course, he knew damn well I’d have something to say on the subject. We were sat in the tasting room at Quevedo, a port and still wine producer in the Cima Corgo sub-region ...

Tasting orange wines with Hugh Johnson Hugh Johnson admires the colour and sheen that 6 months skin contact in an amphora bringsI’m not sure that I have heroes anymore – and those I once had were certainly not wine writers. That said, if I did, and if they were, Hugh Johnson OBE would be a candidate. Several of his books are on my shelf, and his writings have accompanied my entire journey into wine over the last 25 ...

“Orange wines are a sideshow and a waste of time” People not enjoying orange wine at all“What’s the point of experimenting? We know how to make really good wine. Why do we want to throw away the formula and do something different?” Hugh Johnson, interviewed in the Washington Post, October 2016. Recently I’ve been wondering whether the whole arena of natural wines was becoming so mainstream, tolerated and understood that maybe there was no ...

Old Man of La Mancha – de Sol a Sol Airén 2011 Esencia Rural - de Sol a Sol Airen 2011Never mind the special six course foraged dinner “010 020 Het Wilde”, cooked by a crack team of chefs from Rotterdam and Amsterdam. The star of the show for me was de Sol a Sol – a thrilling, profound orange wine which transcends its seemingly extreme method of production – 403 days of skin contact!

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