Wine

You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent posts about wine:

Orange weekly: Čotar – Malvasia 2004 Branko Cotar opens a wine in the tasting room Every week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. Branko Čotar has a very straightforward answer for me when I ask when he started using extended skin macerations for his white wines: “I’ve macerated my wines for 40 years – it’s the tradition ...

Orange weekly: Andreas Tscheppe – Hirschkäfer Erdfass 2006 Andreas Tscheppe - Stag Beetle Erdfass 2011 + 2012The production methods for Tscheppe’s Erdfass (“earth barrel”), also known as Hirschkäfer (Stag beetle), seem bizarre at first glance. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Chardonnary ferments on the skins for two weeks, and is then transferred into a 600 litre oak barrel which is buried in the ground over the winter months. After the ...

Orange Weekly: Arndorfer – Neuburger “per se” 2013 Arndorfer Neuburger Per se 2013I’ve heard many stories about why winemakers have returned to traditional skin maceration for white wines – or why they were inspired to experiment with the style. But Martin Arndorfer’s is quite unique: “It was actually my Danish importer who suggested I start making an orange wine – his clients were demanding the style, ...

Orange weekly: Renčel – Cuvee 2001 Rencel - Cuvee 2001I employ a crude rating system when I’m jotting down tasting notes in the field. A wine gets either no stars (anything from terrible to quite good), one star (very good/excellent), or very rarely two stars (outstanding). 2015’s first two star wine was Josko Renčel’s stunning white blend, simply called “cuvée”. Sharing is caring . ...

Orange weekly: Milan Nestarec – Antica Tramin 2013 Milan Nestarec - Tramin 2013Skin contact traminers are a bit like London buses – you don’t see one for ages, then all of a sudden, two appear at once. I discovered this Czech beauty from Milan Nestarec at last week’s Raw Fair – always an inspiring event, and a fertile hunting ground for orange wines. Sharing is caring . . ...

Orange weekly: Gsellmann – Traminer 2013 Andreas Gsellmann (picture courtesy www.gsellmann.at)Every week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. There’s a bit of a myth that aromatic white varieties don’t work well with extended skin contact. It is true that non-aromatic varieties like Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio and Malvasia Istriana take to ...

Orange weekly: La Stoppa – Ageno 2010 La Stoppa - Ageno 2010This wine is one of relatively few standard bearers for the extended skin contact revival that’s not from Collio or Slovenian Brda. La Stoppa are based in Emilia Romagna, home to a rich, meaty cuisine and of course Lambrusco. Elena Pantaleoni makes this blend of Malvasia di Candia Aromatic, Ortugo and Trebbiano in honour ...

Orange weekly: Aleks Klinec – Ortodox 2006 Klinec - Ortodox 2006Aleks Klinec is brutally honest when I ask about his decision to switch entirely to traditional long skin maceration in 2005 – making only “orange wines” instead of some conventional white wines which were still in the portfolio: “We lost the entire Slovenian market – but it didn’t matter, because these wines sell well in ...

Orange weekly: Ronco Severo – Severo Bianco 2012 Ronco Severo wine label - courtesy Ronco SeveroI made many discoveries at last Friday’s Orange Wines Festival, in gorgeous Izola, Slovenia (full report coming soon) – but none more pleasurable than the wines of Ronco Severo, based in Friuli Colli Orientali. Having twice visited the village of Prepotto, where Schioppettino is king, I wondered how I’d managed to miss such a great ...

Orange weekly: Gravner – Breg 2004 Josko Gravner - Breg 2004Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon, both hailing from Oslavje in north-eastern Friuli, pretty much kickstarted the revival of extended skin contact white wine making, in western Europe (In Georgia it has an unbroken history of 8000 years). For me, this makes uncorking a wine from either producer a special event. Gravner’s wines are as uncompromising as ...

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