Wine

You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent posts about wine:

Burgenland’s burgeoning orange scene: Andert Pamhogna Andert Pamhogna 2012Some interesting Austria producers are well nigh invisible to the English speaking world, and at a guess this is why I’d never heard of Michael Andert (Andert Wein) until late last year. His tiny estate (4ha) in Burgenland (Easterly Austria, near the Hungarian border) has been certified biodynamic since 2003, and the white wines are ...

Stephen Brook: The Wines of Austria – reviewed Stephen Brook - The Wines of Austria (front cover, paperback)The decision to launch a new series of books about wine in 2016 is a brave one, but that’s just what publisher Infinite Ideas has done. The first nine titles in “The Classic Wine Library” are now available, including two written by series editor Richard Mayson, and the title under discussion here: Stephen Brook’s “The Wines ...

Prinčič and the peronospera: A fable Prinčič - Favola 2008 in the glassYou can tell a great winemaker not by what they produce in a good year, but by what they pull together from a catastrophic one. And it didn’t get much worse than Dario Prinčič’s 2008 vintage, where some 90% of his harvest was infected with Peronospora (downy mildew). Prinčič salvaged a pitiful amount of grapes, ...

Mastery of Manzoni: Elisabetta Foradori Foradori - Manzoni Bianco 2014 (Photo Simon Woolf)There are a small number of winemakers out there who defy any attempt at categorisation, apart from superlatives. Elisabetta Foradori is one. She’s the darling of the Italian biodynamic wine movement, an early convert to amphorae, and a peerless exponent of long skin maceration for white wines. But it feels clumsy to describe Foradori’s output ...

Prosecco col esterno – Costadilà 280slm Costadila 280slm label White, red and rosé wines can have bubbles – so why not orange? It hadn’t crossed my mind that such a fascinating sub-genre might exist, but it does. Ernesto Cattel might well have been one of the first to bring it to market – his Costadilà estate on the Northern slopes of Valdobbiadene was ...

Wine from your mind: Mount Abora – Koggelbos 2013 Johan Meyer (Courtesy Johan Meyer/Indigo wine)The Morning Claret has been a little sparse with blogging lately – holidaying in South Africa was the focus of a two glorious weeks. Part of that was of course about wine discovery, and there’s plenty to discover in the huge and diverse Cape winelands. Like Johan Meyer and his Mount Abora project!

Well macerated Riesling: Štekar – Re Piko 2009 Štekar - Re Piko 2007Almost 18 months after discovering Štekar’s serious, spicy and brooding Rebula at Rawfair in 2013, The Morning Claret made it out to their beautiful corner of Brda (Western Slovenia), to discover an outstanding skin macerated RIesling.

Oxidative versus Oxidised: Pacina – La Cerratina 2012 Pacina - La Cerretina 2012“It’s oxidised” – how many times have I heard this statement, when talking about orange wines? Even amongst wine professionals, the misconception often prevails. Most of us are very visual creatures – confronted with what we’re told is ostensibly a white wine, and a darker russet brown, golden yellow or downright orange colour, it can ...

Suave Orange Soave? Menti – Monte del Cuca 2013 Menti - Monte del Cuca 2013The message from Menti, a small family estate in Northern Italy’s Veneto, has a clear intent – these wines are strong, characterful and rather distinct from the usual light, fruity fare that one would expect. Monte del Cuca is a 100% Garganega feremented on its skins for 22 days.

Ancient amber history: Gravner – Breg 1997 Gravner Breg 1997Old wines never cease to fascinate me. They invariably come to the table with a story to tell, with baggage attached, with secrets and profundities that are simply impossible in the latest vintage. This 1997 Breg from Josko Gravner is laden with resonance – it’s one of the first years that Gravner bottled his then “new” ...

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