Wine

You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent posts about wine:

Calmel & Joseph – classy wines from Languedoc Roussillon calmel & joseph wines with cool labelsThe Languedoc-Roussillon still has a bit of a name for being cheap – it’s France’s most important wine region in terms of quantity, with an extraordinary 299,000 hectares under vine (that’s three times the size of Bordeaux, also not exactly small), but you have to hunt for the quality. There are increasing numbers of overperforming AOP ...

Wine out of context – tasting blind at DWCC 2014 Wine out of context wines DWCC 2014Many of us have had this experience – while holidaying in a hot sunny paradise, you taste a fantastic wine (let’s say it’s a rosé) and decide to fill up the suitcase. Uncorking the same wine back at home, it’s utterly disappointing – thin and acidic, instead of the fruit-filled, lip-smacking gem you remembered. This is context – or the lack ...

Load of old bull – does biodynamics need to explain itself? seresin cows horns“When I taste this wine, I imagine I’m walking up the dry river bed next to the Tatou vineyard, just after the rain. The smell of the wet stones is utterly distinctive.” This is the way that Colin Ross, vineyard manager at Seresin, likes to describe wine – no fruit descriptors, no talk of tannins, structure or pH. During a leisurely ...

Bacchus makes hay while the sun shines Bacchus Wijnfestival logoHow about this? A boutique festival set in beautiful woodlands, a sunny day, bands, DJs… and a massive choice of top quality wines served in a real wine glass. It almost sounds too good to be true – but this was what Amsterdam’s first Bacchus Wijnfestival offered for three days between 5-7th September. So bos I headed along ...

Istria’s best wines – a brief round up cloudy day vineyards near motovunDecanter magazine’s September 2014 issue features my regional profile of Istria, arguably Croatia’s finest wine region – an area deserving a lot more attention than it currently gets. The wines and producers recommended in that article were necessarily constrained by what was available on the UK retail market at the time of writing. Here’s a more ...

Learning to love Welschriesling, the Hungarian way Wetzer Sag 2012 Olaszrizling (Front Label)There are some things in life that cause me to come over all opinionated. Battery chicken farming and Montsanto spring to mind. Add to that climate change deniers …  and Welschriesling. Maybe I just need to get out more. Be that as it may, I don’t claim that Welschriesling is evil, just terrifically dull – Especially compared to its near ...

Neuburger en vacance The thrill of the mysterious exerts an irresistible pull. Take a tall, dark handsome stranger, or flowers delivered with an anonymous love letter. Or in my case, a bottle of wine so obscure that all I could do was to uncork it and hope for the best. Yep, I’m a real romantic. It all started in a small Austrian ...

When slurping isn’t natural Slurp back labelI looked at the bottle three times, picked it up, took a photo on my phone. Something didn’t feel quite right. “This is simply a fabulous French no-nonsense natural wine…” screamed the label. And then further down, there it was again: “This wine is 100% natural as well as gorgeous to drink”. At €4.99 in Albert ...

Lakeside view – musings on Lugana “Our wines are made in the vineyard”. If I had a penny for every producer I’ve heard trot out this clichéd phrase, I’d be rich enough to buy a hectare of vines in Burgundy. This statement is safely out of scope in Lake Garda’s Lugana region, an area with a singularly focused approach to both grape and terroir. Trebbiano ...

From the horse’s mouth – A short interview with Isabelle Legeron I’ve just returned from a hugely enjoyable weekend spent at Rawfair, London’s biggest celebration of natural wines. In the space of three years, this event has become a must in my calendar. Every year, I’ve made exciting discoveries and every year I leave feeling hugely optimistic about the wine industry. Raw is never boring, there’s ...

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