Wine

You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent posts about wine:

A fiery Roter Traminer from Tauss Tauss vinyeards in Southern StyriaEvery week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. I’ve featured wines from several of the Schmecke das Leben producers in this series, but not Tauss until now. Roland and Alice Tauss are perhaps the least well known winery in ...

Deep down in a Georgian qvevri – Vinoterra Rkatsiteli 2011 Newly delivered qvevri, Tbilvino (Photo courtesy Kasmirhare)The spiritual and traditional nub of Georgian winemaking is the qvevri – a clay, amphora like vessel buried in the ground and described by Josko Gravner as “a womb for the wine”. Wellmade qvevri white wines can be revelatory in their freshness, intensity and uniqueness. Qvevris have become hip, and producers all over the globe ...

One year of skin contact – Strohmeier Wein der Stille 2013 Strohmeier road signRegular readers will have noticed I’ve featured a few wines in this slot that merely flirt with the orange wine category. So to end the first year of these orange segments, here’s an all-out, serious contender made with 12 months of maceration: Strohmeier’s Wein Der Stille 2013, from Southern Styria, Austria

Le Due Terre – Sacrisassi Bianco 2013 Le due Terre, Oct 2015It’s starting to become a theme in this series – edge cases which are not really orange wines. Take the sole white wine from microscopic but world reknowned Le Due Terre, in Friuli Colli Orientali. A blend of Friulano with 30% Ribolla Gialla, it has 10-12 days of skin contact, and is spontaneously fermented without ...

A new discovery at the Orange Wine Festival – Erzetič Amphora Belo 2011 Erzetic - Amphora Belo 2011 - at OWF in viennaEvery week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. This autumn’s Orange wine festival (Vienna edition) was once again a busy, joyful occasion with some 80 producers from 9 countries, and 500 or more enthusiastic tasters. Many great producers were in the room ...

Uros Klabjan – Malvazija 2012 Uros Klabjan pours a glass of young MalvazijaEvery week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. You have a love a winemaker who recognises when refreshment comes first. I won’t ever forget a 2013 visit to Uros Klabjan‘s small estate in west Slovenia. For mid-May, the weather was ...

A maceration masterclass at Il Carpino – Ribolla Gialla 2011 Il Carpino - the signIf you want to have a masterclass in how skin contact affects white wines, there’s probably no better place than Franco and Anna Sosol’s tasting room. Il Carpino is their 17ha estate, situated on the same winding hill road as Radikon and Gravner, in Friuli Collio.

Cornelissen’s way – Making wine without sulphur frank cornelissen and magmaI’m delighted that this feature was awarded “Best editorial/Opinion wine writing” in the 2015 Born Digital Wine awards. It originally appeared on Tim Atkin’s website in March 2014. Mount Etna’s most controversial winemaker, Frank Cornelissen, is a hard man to track down. After a first failed meet up (my tardiness partially to blame) and a number of vague ...

Master of the Carso: Sandi Skerk – Ograde 2012 Sandi Skerk Oct 2015Sandi Skerk must have one of the most idyllically sited vineyards in Friuli, if not the world. Grassed terraces curve gently around the contours of the Carso hills, and lead your eye out towards the Adriatic coast. I’m profoundly happy to be standing by his albarello-pruned Vitovska vines, almost four years to the day after ...

Burja Estate – Selection Bela 2010 Primoz Lavrencic with open top fermenter (photo courtesy Marijan Mocivnik www.studio-ajd.si)Last week’s wine was definitely an edge case, with only two days of maceration, yet utterly inhabiting the “orange wine” end of the flavour spectrum. Burja is another. Primož Lavrenčič’s 7.4 hectares are situated in the stunning Vipava valley, about 40 km east of the Italian border.

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