Wine

You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent posts about wine:

Prosecco col esterno – Costadilà 280slm Costadila 280slm label White, red and rosé wines can have bubbles – so why not orange? It hadn’t crossed my mind that such a fascinating sub-genre might exist, but it does. Ernesto Cattel might well have been one of the first to bring it to market – his Costadilà estate on the Northern slopes of Valdobbiadene was ...

Wine from your mind: Mount Abora – Koggelbos 2013 Johan Meyer (Courtesy Johan Meyer/Indigo wine)The Morning Claret has been a little sparse with blogging lately – holidaying in South Africa was the focus of a two glorious weeks. Part of that was of course about wine discovery, and there’s plenty to discover in the huge and diverse Cape winelands. Like Johan Meyer and his Mount Abora project!

Well macerated Riesling: Štekar – Re Piko 2009 Štekar - Re Piko 2007Almost 18 months after discovering Štekar’s serious, spicy and brooding Rebula at Rawfair in 2013, The Morning Claret made it out to their beautiful corner of Brda (Western Slovenia), to discover an outstanding skin macerated RIesling.

Oxidative versus Oxidised: Pacina – La Cerratina 2012 Pacina - La Cerretina 2012“It’s oxidised” – how many times have I heard this statement, when talking about orange wines? Even amongst wine professionals, the misconception often prevails. Most of us are very visual creatures – confronted with what we’re told is ostensibly a white wine, and a darker russet brown, golden yellow or downright orange colour, it can ...

Suave Orange Soave? Menti – Monte del Cuca 2013 Menti - Monte del Cuca 2013The message from Menti, a small family estate in Northern Italy’s Veneto, has a clear intent – these wines are strong, characterful and rather distinct from the usual light, fruity fare that one would expect. Monte del Cuca is a 100% Garganega feremented on its skins for 22 days.

Ancient amber history: Gravner – Breg 1997 Gravner Breg 1997Old wines never cease to fascinate me. They invariably come to the table with a story to tell, with baggage attached, with secrets and profundities that are simply impossible in the latest vintage. This 1997 Breg from Josko Gravner is laden with resonance – it’s one of the first years that Gravner bottled his then “new” ...

Work in progress: Rossidi Orange 2015 Edward's favourite shoes (Vivienne Westwood)Rossidi winery is the brainchild of Edward and Rosie Kourian, who make wine together with their friend and consultant winemaker Peter Georgiev. Rossidi are one of a very few producers in Bulgaria who are daring, playful and savvy about what 21st century consumers might like – Eddie’s character runs through everything from his self-confessed “extravagant” ...

Volcanic Fiano & Tuscan terracotta: I Cacciagalli Zagreo 2013 I Cacciagalli Zagreo 2013Right now, amphoras are hip. So is minimal intervention, and extended skin contact for white wines. Diane Iannaccone and Mario Basco of “I Cacciagalli” in Campania do all three, so that makes them super-on trend. Any thoughts that they might be bandwagon jumpers were banished with one taste of their “orange” Fiano, “Zagreo”. It’s an ...

Austrian wine gets a tan: Diwald’s orange Grüner Veltliner and more Martin Diwald holds his explosive wineThis is Grüner Veltliner, but not as you know it. Martin Diwald fermented it in open plastic tubs, on its skins for 7 days. The result – Zündstoff – was destined for a blend, but turned out to be so delicious that it’s been bottled in its own right.

A fiery Roter Traminer from Tauss Tauss vinyeards in Southern StyriaEvery week, I select an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed my attention. View the whole series here. I’ve featured wines from several of the Schmecke das Leben producers in this series, but not Tauss until now. Roland and Alice Tauss are perhaps the least well known winery in ...

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