I Come from Nowhere (Wine Classification is an Ass)
Wine classifications guarantee provenance, but why have many of their controlling institutions become de facto style police?
Originally published as “System of a Dão” in Noble Rot issue 28.
Sour grapes over clean wine
Hannah Fuellenkemper takes a look at the somewhat murky world of clean wine, and why it’s caused such a stir in natural wine circles
Is food and wine pairing irrelevant?
Simon gets grumpy about the state of food and wine pairing in restaurants, outlines some of the most deadly sins and ponders if this fussed over topic is even still relevant.
Tinhof – Sankt Laurent 2017
Spicy and even a little animalistic on the nose, with crushed raspberries and plum fruit. It has that velvety, expressive fruit and texture on the palate, with bright fruit acids and fine tannins with a sappy, nutty finish. A wonderful, Read more
Tinhof – Leithaberg 2019
Filled with cherry compote and a hint of black pepper on the nose, this blend of vineyards from various sites around the Leithaberg DAC has spine tingling freshness and acidity, with delicious sour cherry fruit. Structurally, this is still a Read more
Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Ried Saazen 2020
Lightly peppery, with attractive pear fruit on the nose. Surprisingly and pleasingly rich and honeyed on the palate, with slightly tangy quince and brined (preserved) peach. The concentration and richness are impressive, for a wine that still remains fairly light Read more
Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Natur 2020
Sadly the new barriques used for a part of this wine overawe the rest of the wine. There is spine tingling acidity and tangy fruit, but it can barely survive the onslaught of oak. The attack shows lovely taut fruit Read more
Faber-Köchl – Köchl Verzeichnis 508 Auf das Wohl aller Freunde Cuvée Weiss 2019
Youthful and fruity on the nose, this white blend fermented and aged just in steel tank has a wonderful perky acidity burst on the palate. The energy of the Riesling really shines through, but then the finish is long and Read more
Tinhof – Leithaberg Eisenstadt 2019
Slightly muted and compacted on the nose, this Blaufränkisch from two vineyards (Fehlmühl, Reisbühl) on the slightly lower lying plains around Eisenstadt has spicy, brambly fruit. The oak ageing (16 months in large format barrels) has marked the wine a Read more
Faber-Köchl – Köchl Verzeichnis Exclusiv Weiß Weiße Cuvée 2017
Each variety was treated differently in this blend, and it hasn’t really come together, despite being over three years in the bottle. The barrique fermented Chardonnay shows cinnamon and toast notes that jar with the wilder more appley character of Read more