Simon looks into France’s new charter for natural wines, and gets clarification from Jaques Carroget, its instigator.
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Erzetič – Anfora Belo 2015
With six months skin contact in qvevris, this Rebula-heavy blend has a refined but grippy texture. There’s good citrussy acidity too, but also a slightly stale feeling – some hints of oxidation and some rather over-developed vegetal/dried herb activity. I can’t help wondering what this tasted like when it came out of the qvevris –
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Kristančič Dusan & Marko – Rebula Artwork 2016
Very odd. There are bitter, green tannins that ruin this pretty quickly – despite some promising ripe fruit on the attack. Nothing really recognisble as the variety, and in general a complete lack of harmony. Poor fruit quality?
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Emeran Reya – Yakot 2017
Yet another alternative spelling for one of my fave grapes – Friulano, once Tokaj Friulano, sometime Jakot (Stanko Radikon’s invention) and now Yakot. Wispy whitecurrant aromas, but missing the aromatic punch that I long for with Friulano. Certainly fresh and lively, with a bit of lessy, chalkiness. Nice to drink, not outstanding right now but
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Emeran Reya – Rebula 2017
Proving that it really is the king of maceration – and the star variety in Brda – this five day macerated Rebula is easily the best from this rebooting producer (organic conversion in progress). I wish he’d pushed the maceration time a but further, yet at the same time the lightness and deftness is charming.
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Emeran Reya – Pynot Rosso 2017
Beautiful deep rose colour, really showing off Pinot Grigio’s red alter ego. Juicy fruit with a lovely tart redcurrant note. Tight and slightly reductive right now – which endears me to it, I must say. Lots of fun, and very drinkable at this modest alcohol level. A real charmer. Five days on the skins, wild
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Jakončič – Uvaia 2017
This is a turbo-charged Pinot Grigio, skin fermented in wooden eggs. It’s nicely aromatic and full of ripe red berry notes on the nose, but overbearingly sweet and heavy on the palate – furthermore the fruit feels a little confected, and the wine as a whole feels rather manipulated. I cannot understand the decision to
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Prinčič – Aurei Rebula 2018
There’s bright Rebula fruit and acidity here, with a creamy texture that suggests ripness, whilst retaining the variety’s leaner more sculpted profile. The wood influence is quite noticeable right now. Some butterscotch hints and very mild oxidation – not troubling. There are lovely fine tannins which suggest a long skin contact. Promising, and could come
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Prinčič – Aurei Pinot 2018
Attractive tawny colour, not hugely expressive on the nose but there is nice red fruit on the palate. Really bone dry, and actually on the austere side. The alcohol sticks out a bit. On the one hand, this feels like fairly conventional winemaking, but then there’s a slightly mucky note on the finish that makes
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Emeran Reya – Malvazija 2017
Subtle aromas of fresh tarragon and a hint of apricot don’t prepare you for the rich, salty attack on the palate. Really interesting to taste Malvasia harvested at this modest ripeness level – it’s taut and lean, but retains the almost oily texture, and gorgeous dried apricot fruit. The skin contact (5 days) is subtle