This might be the most successful of all the wines I’ve yet tried in Thomas Buchmayer’s “natural” range. Like its bedfellows, it’s spontaneously fermented, unfiltered and made with very minimal sulphites. From 2019 this will be Demeter certified as well (for now it’s organic). The aromas have delightful Riesling character – lemon and grapefruit peel,
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Buchmayer – Rosé Natural 2019
A bit darker than the classic Provencal rosé, but still in the salmon-pink zone, this is a lively and expressive creature that plays more to the bone dry, austere side of rosé. It’s got a slight spiciness – think peppered strawberry with perhaps a splash of balsamic vinegard. All in all, very clean and crisp.
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Buchmayer – Ried Kalvarienberg (Rot) Natural 2016
A really enjoyable red blend, which shows loads of dark cherry and loganberry fruit – with a refreshing lack of wood influence. It’s pretty substantial stuff, with a chunky structure that shows off the Cabernet, plus some chocolately smoothness from the Merlot – but the fruit expression is really charming, with plenty of lift and
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Buchmayer – Pet Nat Cuvée Weiss 2019
I guess this pet nat would have been well behaved, had the crown cap not become divorced from the plastic O-ring. So I got a very loud pop, but no gushing. This definitely looks to have been disgorged, although it retains an attractive haziness (think New England IPA). There are fresh whitecurrants and thyme on
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Five up-and-coming Slovenian winemakers
Simon profiles five up-and-coming Slovenian winemakers, from four different regions – Emeran Reja from Brda, Fedora from Vipava, Polič from Istra plus Matic & Keltis from Štajerska.
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Buchmayer – Gelber Muskateller Ried Äußere Bergen/Schrattenthal 2019
Subtle elderflower aromas, lemon peel, elegant in the mouth – a hint of lemon drops (candied sweets), that’s to say there is a nice round, ripe feeling. This isn’t part of Buchayer’s natural range, and is certainly a more mainstream style (blocked malolactic fermentation and relatively high SO2 at around 70mg/L), but perfectly pleasant at
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Buchmayer – Grüner Veltliner Natural 2019
Impressive given that it’s so young, this is a ripe and fairly full bodied Grüner, with chunky green plum and gooseberry fruit. There’s a lot of flavour and depth here, a nice balance and plenty of expression. Not particularly peppery, but there’s a tangy, spicy hint. Satisfying stuff with great potential to age for a
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Buchmayer – Grüner Veltliner Kalvarienberg 2017
The wood is very evident here, with a lot of cinnamon and wood shaving aromas. The fruit feels lively, but it’s sadly overawed by the oak. Having tried more recent vintages (2018 and 2019), this is a bit of a disappointment. Maybe in another year or so the oak might integrate a bit more, but
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Buchmayer – Gelber Traminer Natural 2018
Noticeably fresher and higher in acidity than its 2019 twin, this cloudy, macerated yellow traminer (4 weeks skin contact and no added sulphites) has herby, yellow plum and fresh apricot aromas which also carry over onto the palate. It’s certainly lively, but there’s a slight vegetal note (tinned peas, perhaps) which jars a bit on
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Buchmayer – Grüner Veltliner Kalvarienberg 2019
A single vineyard version of the same producer’s Grüner Veltliner Natural, this is also the first vintage to be Demeter certified. The nose shows lots of ripeness, and some signs of oak ageing (a butterscotch hint). There’s a delightful interplay going on in this wine – on the attack there’s a hit of sweetness and