The Grafenegg tasting of the Danube’s top wines is one of the highlights of the tasting year. Yet sometimes the wines can show a frustrating uniformity. Simon investigates why this is.
The Grafenegg tasting of the Danube’s top wines is one of the highlights of the tasting year. Yet sometimes the wines can show a frustrating uniformity. Simon investigates why this is.
There’s a nice aromatic quality to the nose, with green plum and a hint of jasmine. Full of herb-tinged orchard fruits, green apple, citrus, yellow plum and more. It’s a ripe style but with loads of freshness and acidity, and quite soft, fine tannins. The finish has a pleasing bitterness that adds freshness. Another year
Late harvested and wild fermented with a whole month of skin contact, this is a big character, but a lovable one. Full of juicy red fruits, nutty and quite assertive tannins. Good freshness, and great drinkability. The fruit has a herbaceous and spicy character, with redcurrant and wild herbs. The colour is, unsurprisingly, a beautiful
Typically on-point for this tiny winery in Sempas (Vipava valley). This is a lighter style with just three days of skin contact. Very herbaceous and citrussy on the nose, with some green plum and candied fruits. Attractive flavours of wild berries and bitter herb. Tight but with really great potential and very fresh and lively
Named after Jo’s father, whose elegance she says matches this wine. Although it lacks some freshness on the nose, the palate of this co-fermented red/white blend still feels pretty lively. Plavac’s leathery, pruney fruit dominates the flavour profile. There’s loads of ripe red berry, with a hint of caramel and citrus. Rather robust and structured
This white blend from Kristina Mervic (with five days of skin contact) is never my favourite of her wines, as it tends to show more oak influence than the others. That said, 2010 and 2012 were polished and enjoyable. This 2013 is much more oxidative on the nose than previous vintages, with notes of walnuts,
Skin fermented in conical oak fermenters, before long lees ageing and bottling unfiltered and unfined. Fairly shy on the nose, but with some charming and telltale aromas of sage and citrus. Exciting acidity and wonderful crisp apricot fruit on the palate. Tight and fresh, with quite assertive tannins but everything here is in balance. Refined
A bit strung out on the nose, with a slightly gluey, wild berry note. What’s nice about this is the bright acids and fine tannins. The alcohol sticks out a bit, and overall there’s a lack of harmony about the wine. Five days skin contact.
Rounded and quite dark fruited, with a chocolately almost Merlot-like character, but also with some nice herbal notes. Harmonious and well balanced, fairly easy going but well made.
Green pepper and laurel on the nose – enticing and really typical aromas for this lovely grape variety. Silken fruit with ripe red berry compote and a subtle mocha hint. Great acidity and silky tannins. Elegant and refreshing, with a hint of bitterness on the finish that feels like it will disappear with more bottle