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The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf + friends on wild and wonderful wines

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  • beaune 1er cru les coucherias comte senard label

    Hilliard’s charms

    Simon J Woolf   

      Hilliard is a small cafe-bistro, just off Fleet Street. It’s an oasis of quality and personality, amongst Fleet Street’s sea of tiresome chain eateries. I eat lunch there a few times every week, which always brightens up the day. Well executed, unfussy food, with careful sourcing and interesting twists. By way of example, today’s

  • Hot but not bothered – Phélan Ségur 2003

    Simon J Woolf   

    It’s always interesting to re-taste the wines from Bordeaux’s 2003 heatwave. There was much scaremongering at the time – the wines were flabby, they might fall apart before reaching maturity, they were largely atypical of the region, and so on. How enjoyable then, to taste Thierry Gardinier’s classic, yet accessible St. Estephe, which has happily

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