Anyone who thinks that larger wineries can’t do quality, or show a serious commitment to sustainable, minimal-intervention production methods, should check out the wines from Gernot and Heike Heinrich in Burgenland, Austria. Simon takes a spin through their skin contact range.
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Macerated highlights from the Brda 2nd International Rebula Masterclass
Despite the ever-increasing interest in its output, Slovenia still lacks a nationwide promotional body that is purely focused on wine – the task currently falls to the Slovenian Tourist Board, which tends to focus more on gastronomy. There’s no equivalent to Austria’s peerless Wine Marketing Board, nor directly to Italy’s consorzios or Germany’s VDP. So
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Cosi Casè – a capricious Malvasia di Candia
Every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here. When I first discovered the macerated monolith that is La Stoppa’s Ageno, I made the assumption that it was a bit of a one-off. Like so many assumptions, it turned out to be completely
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Book review: Kevin Begos – Tasting the Past
Simon reviews Kevin Begos’s new book “Tasting the Past – The science of flavor and the search for the origins of wine”
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Hirsch – Grüner Veltliner Renner 2017
Spicy, white pepper aromas, delicate notes of preserved lemon (salty and citrus), subtle and rather pretty. Very refreshing to have this lighter style, which has plenty of nuance and potential – there are subtle notes of honeycomb too.
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Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Lamm 2017
An exciting, unusual expression of Grüner Veltliner – kumquat, mango, racy acidity, almost buttery, but completely avoids being overbearing or fat. Nose has some lightly aromatic notes (lychee, but nothing like as O.T.T. as Gewürztraminer). Still a baby but beautiful, nuanced and super drinkable. A very fine effort which is already wonderful, and has even
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Jurtschitsch – Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2017
Tight fruit core of lemon and mandarin, quite concentrated but bone dry and oh so refined. Carries itself effortlessly on the finish, just a bit more texture and generosity than the regular Heiligenstein. Already sensational, this should be amazing in a year or two’s time when it has rounded out a bit more. Again, this
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Salomon Undhof – Riesling Kögl Steiner Kögl 2017
Superb concentration and balance. This is a big wine for Riesling but it’s beautifully carried by the racy acidity and the minerals. Spiced apple and mandarin fruit on the palate, quite aromatic nose. In the first flushes of youth but with this depth and weight this should just keep getting better.
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Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg 2017
Tight, mineral almost chewy GV. Amazing structure, super focused fruit (barely ripe pear and quince). Dances across the palate with all manner of crushed rock and mineral notes. Exciting, elegant, extraordinary expression of GV. Nose has hints of hay, ripe papaya and pear.
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Nigl – Riesling Hochäcker Privat 2017
Exotic, perfumed nose of angelica root and passion flower, similarly exotic fruits on the palate, dancing acidity, superbly elegant and poised. Such a delicate pretty wine, but so focused and multi-dimensional too. Excellent.