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The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf + friends on wild and wonderful wines

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  • Douloufakis – Vidiano Amphora 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Noticeably oxidative on the nose, with caramel and nuts. Rather flat and featureless on the palate, with some cooked fruits. There’s some sweet apricot, apple tart and a slight saltiness on the finish. But overall this lacks excitement, and the alcohol sticks out on the finish. 3 months in amphora, no sulphites, no filtration.

  • Recerca – Pharmakon 002 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Spicy red fruit with a lovely acidic streak and a hint of aromatics from the Muscat in the blend. Soft textured and super fresh, with a sensation of wild berries. Easy drinking but characterful too. Recerca is the project of two winemakers, Jess Albero & Laurent Pujol

  • Demena – Wabi Sabi 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Velvet textured, soft fruited, with perfumed raspberry and a subtle spiciness. Very fine and soft tannins. Hint of musk. Super clean. No sulphites. Hard to recognise this as Cinsault. Also I don’t quite understand the name, which is a Japanese philosophical construct meaning something like “beauty in imperfection”. Here there is really nothing “funky” or

  • Les Vignes d’Olivier – Déferlantes 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Wild berries, lovely acids, rosehip, quite grassy and herbaceous. A nice sour twang and a mineral, irony touch. Characterful, fruity and definitely upmarket glou-glou. No added sulphites.

  • Dominio Romano – Camino Romano 2018

    Simon J Woolf   

    I started salivating already with the nose of this wine – it’s slightly bloody, with cranberry and a slight toastiness. Super juicy strawberry fruit, with a smoky, earthy hint, gorgeous acidity and bright red berry fruit, topped off with sappy, soft tannins. Effortlessly balanced and elegant. This is how wonderful Tempranillo – or Tinto Fino

  • Gratavinum – GV5 2013

    Simon J Woolf   

    Inky black, with roasted, meaty aromas, baked plums and graphite. Warming and delicious on the palate, with great balance and perfect evolution. Roasted fruits, fully evolved tannins. Everything in its place. A big wine but with surprising drinkability, and one that really speaks of this hot, mountainous region. There’s more wood influence here than with

  • Les Vignes d’Olivier – Ronds Rouges 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Very ripe strawberry aromas lead into charming and expressive red berry fruit. Packed ful l of wild strawberries, with a balsamic hint – like strawberries that have been dusted with black pepper. Very light on its feet but with a nice bit of grip that stops it becoming boring. Think Beaujolais cru but with the

  • Vignobles Pueyo – Hellébore 2018

    Simon J Woolf   

    From an organic certified winery based in St. Emilion (Their most well-known brand is La Fleur Garderose), this Semillon fermented and aged for 10 months in amphora. Still a little closed on the nose, it needs oxygen and then the fruit starts to speak, with some subtle notes of roasted nut. Then in the mouth,

  • Dominio Romano – Dominio Romano 2015

    Simon J Woolf   

    Smoky and dark fruited on the nose, this has the same joyful red fruit as its little brother the Camino – but here there’s a lot more structure, more “seriousness”, plus wonderful acidity and mineral energy. That feeling of sappy and playful strawberry and raspberry fruit is still there, but here wrapped around a more

  • Demena – Contak 2019

    Simon J Woolf   

    Fresh, green apple fruit on the nose, slight reduction. Slightly funky, earthy fruit. A strange style that, although it’s not lacking fruit, really could use more acidity. As it stands, a bit flat and not a wine that invites you back for another sip. Bottled under crown cap, which made me wonder if it would

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