Every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here. When I first discovered the macerated monolith that is La Stoppa’s Ageno, I made the assumption that it was a bit of a one-off. Like so many assumptions, it turned out to be completely
-
-
Book review: Kevin Begos – Tasting the Past
Simon reviews Kevin Begos’s new book “Tasting the Past – The science of flavor and the search for the origins of wine”
-
Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Lamm 2017
An exciting, unusual expression of Grüner Veltliner – kumquat, mango, racy acidity, almost buttery, but completely avoids being overbearing or fat. Nose has some lightly aromatic notes (lychee, but nothing like as O.T.T. as Gewürztraminer). Still a baby but beautiful, nuanced and super drinkable. A very fine effort which is already wonderful, and has even
-
Jurtschitsch – Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2017
Tight fruit core of lemon and mandarin, quite concentrated but bone dry and oh so refined. Carries itself effortlessly on the finish, just a bit more texture and generosity than the regular Heiligenstein. Already sensational, this should be amazing in a year or two’s time when it has rounded out a bit more. Again, this
-
Steininger – Riesling Seeberg 2017
Generous fruit, lychee, kiwi fruit, quite aromatic and exotic, with gorgeous acidity that makes it sing. Such fruit purity and vitality here, a wonderful effort and so enjoyable already.
-
Jurtschitsch – Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg 2017
Tight, mineral almost chewy GV. Amazing structure, super focused fruit (barely ripe pear and quince). Dances across the palate with all manner of crushed rock and mineral notes. Exciting, elegant, extraordinary expression of GV. Nose has hints of hay, ripe papaya and pear.
-
Hirsch – Grüner Veltliner Renner 2017
Spicy, white pepper aromas, delicate notes of preserved lemon (salty and citrus), subtle and rather pretty. Very refreshing to have this lighter style, which has plenty of nuance and potential – there are subtle notes of honeycomb too.
-
Salomon Undhof – Riesling Kögl Steiner Kögl 2017
Superb concentration and balance. This is a big wine for Riesling but it’s beautifully carried by the racy acidity and the minerals. Spiced apple and mandarin fruit on the palate, quite aromatic nose. In the first flushes of youth but with this depth and weight this should just keep getting better.
-
Schmid – Riesling Sunogeln 2017
Green apple and citrus fruit, nervy acids, concentrated but reined in and bone dry. Almost a dead ringer for Gruner with its ripe appley fruit. A very satisfying drop.
-
Leth – Grüner Veltliner Scheiben 2017
Full, creamy GV with a gorgeous leesy consistency, nice blossoms on the nose and a mineral streak running through its considerable length. Just cut pineapple fruit and white pepper. Very expressive and enjoyable now.