Auf Wiedersehen Pét
Simon gets ranty about pét nat, natural wine’s ubiquitous fizz. This article was originally published in Noble Rot Magazine, issue 27.
The new Lisboa: Rodrigo Martins and Espera
Simon visits consultant and natural winemaker Rodrigo Martins, to learn about his change to working exclusively with organic viticulture and his personal Espera project. We also talk about his frustration with the DOC classification process in Lisboa.
Weingut Röck – Petra 2020
Some fresh herbs and a slightly custardy hint on the nose, with bright, limey fruit and good concentration. This is a slightly atypical Nuller-Thurgau, which doesn’t show the floral character of the grape, but instead has a slightly steely, mineral Read more
Weingut Röck – Voglia 2020
Juicy, joyful and fruit filled, this is a soft, lightweight Blauer Portugieser with lively acids and a delicately nutty finish. Perfect glouglou material, with a sense of alpine freshness and deftness.
Old Boy – Hey You! Maceratone Prodound 2020
1 month skin contact in amphora. 2nd fermentation with following vintage pied de cuve. If you needed any more proof that Chardonnay is a chameleon, here it is. It lends itself beautifully well to this lively (actualy a bit too Read more
Old Boy – Hey Boy! Ancestrale 2020
You have to love acidity for this. There’s a sour jolt of bitter lemon on the attack that is quite extreme, although it also has a nice yeasty side note. It’s early picking taken to the max. The bubbles are Read more
Podere Ortica – Ade 2020
Very expressive and aromatic on the nose for Trebbiano – filled with ripe pithy apricot and white peach, nicely fruity and crisp on the attack but then goes in a slightly bitter, green direction on the finish. The very very Read more
Podere Ortica – Agadè 2020
Although it’s a bit tight and rubbery on the nose, this rosé is juicy and charming on the palate, filled with soft strawberry fruit and a hint of balsamico. There’s a suggestion of phenolics on the finish – just enough Read more
Old Boy – Hey Girl! Rosé Col Fondo 2020
2nd fermentation stimulated with chardonnay must. Calling your rosé “Hey girl” might be questionable in the 21st century, yet this is a delicious frizzante style that really shows off the plus points of both grape varieties. There’s a lick of Read more
Weingut Röck – Johanna 2020
A bit shy on the nose, but full of white pepper on the palate, with a nicely judged medium weight and crisp finish. Suprisingly typical, given that this is Grüner a long way from home. The finish feels slightly austere.