Very odd. There are bitter, green tannins that ruin this pretty quickly – despite some promising ripe fruit on the attack. Nothing really recognisble as the variety, and in general a complete lack of harmony. Poor fruit quality?
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Nine Oaks – Kisi 2018
Despite lacking qvevris, Nine oaks have made a typical and thrilling Kisi in 2018, with those wonderfully opulent ripe papaya and kaki fruit aromas, and a big, bold palate. It’s big on texture too, with chunky, drying tannins that crave food. Not one for acidity freaks, but cellar this for a year or two and
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Blazič – Blaz Belo 2015
Extremely deep gold, amber colour with a slight pinky tinge. Ever so slightly stale on the nose, with cooked apple and dried meditterenean herbs. Yet the palate is thrilling and alive, with nutty tannins, lively citrus notes and all sorts of underbrush and bruised fruits. We’re properly in red wine territory here, in terms of
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Jakončič – Uvaia 2017
This is a turbo-charged Pinot Grigio, skin fermented in wooden eggs. It’s nicely aromatic and full of ripe red berry notes on the nose, but overbearingly sweet and heavy on the palate – furthermore the fruit feels a little confected, and the wine as a whole feels rather manipulated. I cannot understand the decision to
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Papari Valley – Rkatsiteli Three terraces 2017
As ever, Nukri Kurdadze’s Rkatsiteli is super ripe and expressive on the nose – full of baked fruits, quince, apple and even a little marzipan and honey. The fruit really sings loud and clear, and can do battle with the grippy, dusty tannins that are typical. There’s a nutty, apricot kernel quality to the finish
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Emeran Reya – Rebula 2017
Proving that it really is the king of maceration – and the star variety in Brda – this five day macerated Rebula is easily the best from this rebooting producer (organic conversion in progress). I wish he’d pushed the maceration time a but further, yet at the same time the lightness and deftness is charming.
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Papari Valley – Chinuri-Rkatsiteli three terraces 2018
Fascinating to compare this 50/50 blend with the same estate’s 100% Rkatsiteli. Here there is a lot more freshness and lift (which might also be a result of 2018’s vintage conditions). Some exotic fruit notes (kiwi, rambutan) do battle with perfectly ripe, nutty tannins. It’s a nil-nil draw meaning this is a beautifully balanced wine
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Emeran Reya – Pynot Rosso 2017
Beautiful deep rose colour, really showing off Pinot Grigio’s red alter ego. Juicy fruit with a lovely tart redcurrant note. Tight and slightly reductive right now – which endears me to it, I must say. Lots of fun, and very drinkable at this modest alcohol level. A real charmer. Five days on the skins, wild
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Satrapezo – Mtsvane 2013
Not one for the purists, as this qvevri-fermented Mtsvane had a passage in oak barrels after six months with its skins. Yet it’s a very successful wine, managing to retain the variety’s aromatic character and showing ripe, bright fruit on the palate. Seven years of age is about right for this extremely tannic variety, which
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Nine Oaks – Khikhvi 2018
This new estate still lacks qvevris, so this vintage was made in steel tanks. It’s not quite as successful as the brilliant 2016, feeling a bit more wiry. There are delicate aromatics and exotic fruit notes though. And a certain delicacy about the structure (the tannins are nonetheless thick and mouth-coating), and good balance which