This is magic: all the slatey, stony minerality that one wants, plus glints of tart mango, kiwi and plum that add depth and complexity to the palate. So dry that it risks becoming austere, so maybe waiting for a year or two is the smart thing to do.
What is it about the 2017s from Kamptal? They seem to age very fast. There’s already noticeable oxidation and development here, which lends the fruit a slightly tired character that it surely shouldn’t have. That said, there are many points of interest – the long finish, with hints of butterscotch, and the very Riesling-like whiff
Where the oak in Leth’s Grüner seems to work, with the Riesling it feels a little muted. The acidity sings, and there is generous, honeyed fruit, but overall there’s a slight lack of real excitement or elegance.
Slightly toasty nose, leading to very expressive and ripe fresh apricot and quince. Great structure and harmony, this is a big character but with elegance and poise. The finish is long and saline, staying fresh right to the end.