How Bründmayer can harvest at 14.5% alcohol and still make such a piercingly fresh, lively wine is extraordinary. I would be shocked if this high quality, organic verging on biodynamic producer acidifies their wines. There is some toasty oak influence in this wine, but it just about works. It’s a big and spicy beast but with so much energy that it comes across as positively lean.
The superior quality of the fruit is evident, with lovely acids and minerals – but a whiff of toasty new oak is slightly unwelcome at this party. That said, the finish is pretty sensational, with tangy, spicy acids and saline freshness.