Jan Matthias Klein – Little Bastard 2018

Originally conceived as a cheaper, more easygoing companion to "Madcap Magnus", Jan's first foray into natural winemaking, this blend has taken off in its own right. Superbly lively and a little bit spritzy straight out of the bottle. You can feel the acid kick of the Riesling, but there is texture too - half the Müller-Thürgau and all of the Muskateller in the blend were skin fermented. It's amazingly clean and bright(a triumph for a no added sulphur wine, to be honest), the kind of wine where the bottle just disappears in the twinkling of an eye.

The label by Aaron Scheuer certainly adds to the appeal.