Very deep coloured, tannic and full of roasted twigs, tea leaves, hints of caramel and woodsmoke. The acidity is spellbinding, but all the components haven’t quite come together. A hint of botrytis (spices and marmalade) is noticeable on the nose. The potential is huge here. It’s a surprise given the low alcohol, that this is so complex and profound.
More than a hint to the Gravner style, albeit in a lighter mould. And just like Gravner’s regal wines, this needs time. I’d drink the 2014 now, and wait a year or two for this to get its act together.
Quite a fascinating wine in terms of how that complexity is achieved: the team does three separate harvests of the Trebbiano, the first when it’s slightly unripe but full of acidity. This triage isn’t skin fermented. Then the second (main) harvest at optimal ripeness. This is skin fermented, and forms the largest part of the blend.
The final 10% of so is late harvested, and it’s this portion that is deliberately allowed to develop a bit of botrytis (aka “noble rot”, as is so desirable in Tokaj and in Sauternes)