The Morning Claret

Simon J Woolf & Friends on Wild and Wonderful Wines


Tinhof – Sankt Laurent 2017

Spicy and even a little animalistic on the nose, with crushed raspberries and plum fruit. It has that velvety, expressive fruit and texture on the palate, with bright fruit acids and fine tannins with a sappy, nutty finish. A wonderful, Read more

Tinhof – Leithaberg 2019

Filled with cherry compote and a hint of black pepper on the nose, this blend of vineyards from various sites around the Leithaberg DAC has spine tingling freshness and acidity, with delicious sour cherry fruit. Structurally, this is still a Read more

Tinhof – Leithaberg Eisenstadt 2019

Slightly muted and compacted on the nose, this Blaufränkisch from two vineyards (Fehlmühl, Reisbühl) on the slightly lower lying plains around Eisenstadt has spicy, brambly fruit. The oak ageing (16 months in large format barrels) has marked the wine a Read more

Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Natur 2020

Sadly the new barriques used for a part of this wine overawe the rest of the wine. There is spine tingling acidity and tangy fruit, but it can barely survive the onslaught of oak. The attack shows lovely taut fruit Read more

Faber-Köchl – Grüner Veltliner Ried Saazen 2020

Lightly peppery, with attractive pear fruit on the nose. Surprisingly and pleasingly rich and honeyed on the palate, with slightly tangy quince and brined (preserved) peach. The concentration and richness are impressive, for a wine that still remains fairly light Read more

Perego & Perego – Audrey B 2017

Quite a bizarre wine – with three tannic, high alcohol red varieties, and then finishing fermentation in the bottle like a pét-nat. The bubbles are fun, but the style lacks freshness and is hugely tannic. The fruit feels oddly lean Read more

Perego & Perego – Amber Demon R 2021

Earthy, and raisined on the nose, this is a super macerated, tannic style of Riesling that is quite a lot of fun – but impossible to recognise the variety, and way too young at the moment. There is a nice Read more

Prati al Sole – Lambro 2020

Uncert biodynamic. No added SO2 It’s a joy to drink naturally vinified Lambrusco. This is bone dry, with tight, wiry blackcurrant fruit and a feeling of airiness and space in the bubbles. There’s an attractive rustic touch – some earthy, Read more