This is magic: all the slatey, stony minerality that one wants, plus glints of tart mango, kiwi and plum that add depth and complexity to the palate. So dry that it risks becoming austere, so maybe waiting for a year or two is the smart thing to do.
Muted nose, but generous palate, with salty apple and quince fruit and some buttery, toasty backnotes. A big, ripe style for Gobelsburg, but of course this has been handled with panache and restraint, and retains considerable harmony and balance.
Very fruit driven style of Grüner, with a slightly raisined hint that, together with the super high ABV suggests this may have been harvested a few days too late. Nonethless, the acidity sings and there is a subtle whisp of honey and flint that adds to the expression.
Rather blunted, hot and heavy, with browned apple slices and capsicum. One cannot argue that there is typicity from both variety and vineyard, but this is not a “second glass wine”. In fact for me it’s not even a first glass wine.
The superior quality of the fruit is evident, with lovely acids and minerals – but a whiff of toasty new oak is slightly unwelcome at this party. That said, the finish is pretty sensational, with tangy, spicy acids and saline freshness.
Attractive citrus lift and mineral expression, but also some toasty oak notes that haven’t yet quite integrated. The fruit is tight and defined, the finish long and butttery. Given a year or two in bottle, this could be superb.