Compared to Jurtschitsch’s younger vines on this site, there is more fruit concentration and a predominance of ripe lemon and grapefruit chunks. Finish is long and bone dry. The linear focus and precision is blinding, although in some ways this is a more monothematic wine than the regular Heiligenstein. It’s hard to choose a favourite.
Ripe, herbaceous fruit which feels a little lacking in definition. The generosity of the fruit has sacrificed something of the elegance that this site is capable of. An enjoyable wine with good acids, but not quite achieving what it should in this “Erste Lage”.
What is it about the 2017s from Kamptal? They seem to age very fast. There’s already noticeable oxidation and development here, which lends the fruit a slightly tired character that it surely shouldn’t have. That said, there are many points of interest – the long finish, with hints of butterscotch, and the very Riesling-like whiff
Very broad (almost flabby considering this is Riesling) and tasting of bananas – the winemaking seems to have influenced this more than it should (cold fermentation temperatures and added yeasts?). There’s a lack of drive here, although some minerals enter the fray on the finish
Rather extracted and lees-dominated, the fruit is missing a bit from this Heiligenstein. Plenty to enjoy in terms of texture and saline quality, but it’s not the whole picture. Bone dry and a little harsh, perhaps this should have been harvested a bit earlier.
Where the oak in Leth’s Grüner seems to work, with the Riesling it feels a little muted. The acidity sings, and there is generous, honeyed fruit, but overall there’s a slight lack of real excitement or elegance.
Subtle use of some skin fermentation has lent this added depth and complexity. Ripe apricot and greengauge (green plum) fruit, just enough acidity and a subtle mineral streak on the finish. A little riper than I’d prefer, but a great drop and lots of drinking pleasure to be had now.