You’ll find everything from individual wine or producer reviews to reports from tastings or winery visits in this section. Here is a selection of recent articles about wine:
Freedom at scale – Heinrich Graue Freyheit Anyone who thinks that larger wineries can’t do quality, or show a serious commitment to sustainable, minimal-intervention production methods, should check out the wines from Gernot and Heike Heinrich in Burgenland, Austria. Simon takes a spin through their skin contact range.
Cosi Casè – a capricious Malvasia di Candia Every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here. When I first discovered the macerated monolith that is La Stoppa’s Ageno, I made the assumption that it was a bit of a one-off. Like so many assumptions, it turned out to be completely false. La ...
A tale of two Georgias: Nine Oaks Estate Nine oaks is a newly created vineyard and winery in Kakheti Georgia. Despite not having any qvevris when they made their first vintage in 2016, the results are authentic and impressive.
Celebrating The Amber Revolution with a Gravner vertical Simon is lucky enough to taste an incredible vertical of Gravner’s wines, during a celebratory weekend as his book Amber Revolution launches in Europe
Vodopivec, a perfect expression of Vitovska “The first problem for wine producers is not oedium, it’s ego”, states Paolo Vodopivec disarmingly. He concludes “I don’t want my ego in my wines”. Simon discoves what this means, and why Vodopivec hates being associated with the orange wine scene.
Herrgott’s orange beauty – Sofrei Gelb Every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here. Christian Strohmeier isn’t directly related to the rather more well known Franz Strohmeier but just to add to the confusion, the two winemakers live not only in the same Austrian wine region (Western Styria) but actually ...
Ceci n’est pas un orange – La Biancara Pico Simon tries to understand what Angiolino Maule means when he says he doesn’t like orange wine.
Lip-smacking macerated frizzante from Croci Massimiliano Croci’s lip-smacking frizzante wines have a hidden tannic kick which really works well – a tasty tradition from Emilia-Romagna. Simon reviews their 2016 Campedello.
Earth, grapes and maceration – Claus Preisinger’s Edelgraben GV Claus Preisinger shows that Burgenland’s Grüner Veltliner can really deliver, if it’s macerated for five months in a Georgia qvevri.
A perfect blend of old and new – Vinarija Križ Every week, Simon selects an orange wine (a white wine made with extended skin contact) that grabbed his attention. View the whole series here. Denis Bogoević Marušić and his father Mile are an impressive 42 years apart (Mile is 85 and Denis is 43). But as Denis’s wife Maja remarks, “Both are well preserved with natural wine” – and ...